He quotes Josh Ozersky’s The Hamburger: A History:
Even before the hamburger became a universal signifier of imperialism abroad and unwholesomeness at home, it had a special semiotic powera quality not shared even by other great American sandwiches like the hot dog, the patty melt, the Dagwood, the Reuben, the po’boy, or even such totemic standards as fried chicken and apple pie. At the end of the day, nothing says America like a hamburger Is it a sizzling disc of goodness, served in a roadside restaurant dense with local lore, or the grim end product of a secret, sinister empire of tormented animals and unspeakable slaughtering practices? Is it cooking or commodity? An icon of freedom or the quintessence of conformity?
Something to chew on, I suppose.